Notizie.it editorial team Moscow Fashion Week, which concluded on October 1st, brought together over 350 designers from across the globe, once again establishing itself as a hub for emerging independent fashion. We've selected the key trends that unfolded on the runways of the world's leading fashion capitals.
Lace like air
One of the most talked-about events of Paris Fashion Week was the Dior collection, presented by Jonathan Anderson in the Jardin des Tuileries. The overarching theme was lightness: Chantilly lace, organza, and silk muslin. It's no coincidence that the house's press release questioned whether lace could hold air. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali placed broderie anglaise at the center, pairing it with guipure, three-dimensional flowers, and pearls. In Moscow, lace became a key theme in the couture collection by Slava Zaitsev —the house's first since the death of its celebrated founder. Vologda and Yelets lace were paired with antique damask brocade and natural silk, while hand embroidery with beads and pearls, exotic bird feathers, and Rostov enamel recalled traditional Russian craftsmanship. Northern lace was also the protagonist of the young brand Skolka , which built the collection on the graphic contrast between black and white, hiding ancient symbols in the motifs – the diamond of fertility, the solar circle, the wave, the birds of happiness and the tree of life.
Dior, Slava Zaitsev, Chloé
The boudoir comes to town
Lingerie motifs, already present on the runways for several seasons, became a key theme of the new collections. Prada included bra-tops in 21 of the 63 looks, pairing them with statement skirts, while Fendi and Blumarine proposed vintage slip dresses and sheer capes. London developed the theme with a romantic twist: at Simone Rocha, lingerie seemed to emerge casually from beneath dresses. In Moscow, the Ruban brand echoed this same atmosphere, building the collection around hypnagogia—the transitional state between wakefulness and sleep. The floral print on silk, silk organza, and cambric, the floor-length silk slippers, the quilted silk pouch bags with cuffs, and the leather jacket with a corset-like clasp closure created the feeling of a private, almost dreamlike space.
Prada, Fendi, Ruban
A leader in the center
Miuccia Prada compared skirts to T-shirts, and nearly the entire new collection from the fashion house was built around them: knee-length skirts became the foundation and fulcrum of every look at Milan Fashion Week. In New York, the season's star was the voluminous midi skirt, appearing in numerous collections, including at Khaite, known for its streamlined silhouettes. In Paris, Ester Manas made the oversized shirt the season's standout piece, presenting it in a wide variety of materials, from checked flannel to pale pink taffeta. At Moscow Fashion Week, Victoria Andreyanova dedicated her entire Within collection to the shirt. The designer once created uniforms for large companies, and since then, the shirt has become a symbol of her brand: in the new collection, it transforms into layered dresses and convertible tunics, and meets relaxed-fit blazers. "The shirt as a base is essentially a blank page, and then it's up to us to decide what it will become," explains Andreyanova.
Khaite, Ester Manas, Victoria Andreyanova
Fringes, feathers and craftsmanship
Tactility became the common language of the new season. At Bottega Veneta, Louise Trotter added fringe, crochet, and embroidery to her summer wardrobe, deliberately allowing a certain imperfection to emerge. In London, feathers and fringe appeared at Ahluwalia and Toga, while Burberry decorated garments with three-dimensional floral appliqués. In Moscow, feathers became the material for skirts in Atelier Duo's Terra South collection, where lace and sheer fabrics coexisted with jacquard, velvet, and denim in a deep ochre hue. Another Russian brand, Kisselenko , focused on texture: embossing, reliefs, and pleats animated the surfaces of silk, fine wool, cotton, and linen, while organza and chiffon added lightness to the layers.
Bottega Veneta, Kisselenko, Ahluwalia